I was reminded of my few days in Valparaíso this week when a fellow traveler I met while wandering through the city dropped through Berlin for coffee and falafel. I always had a hunch I would like Valparaíso, and it was not so far off from the truth... I did not, however, enjoy the inflated coffee prices, especially coupled with the fact that it often seemed to be instant coffee. Harumph.

But if there's one single thing you need to know about this city, it's that Valpo likes street art. Giant, amazing, murals are at every turn, as well as a good workout around half of them (if uphill-walking is your thing, you're in luck). The best street artists from all over the world flock to Valparaíso to cover its walls according to an intricate set of well-accepted rules about who's allowed to paint where and when and, presumably, to enjoy some great views and overpriced meals. It was also where Pablo Neruda had one of his many residences, worth visiting if you're into finding out about the more scandalous sexcapades of a man who can melt the hardest of us with words.

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